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Things
to do and see
North Cyprus
is one of the most attractive places in the Mediterranean, but because
of its troubled history and political isolation, it has remained
largely unaffected by mass tourism.

It has a great
deal to offer the visitor - there are ancient Roman ruins, Crusader
castles, Byzantine churches, Ottoman mosques. It has a wonderful
climate, with long hot summers and relatively warm winters. The
nearest main town, Kyrenia, is full of narrow cobbled streets leading
down to the harbour,below, which is lined with a wide range of restaurants.
Places
to visit
In the hall, there is a reasonably good range of guidebooks and
a map. The book by Diana Darke is probably the most authoritative,
but ignore any prices as it was written a few years ago.
Beaches
The nearest good beach is Escape, although this is now a bit over-developed.
Entry is about £2 person for the showers and sunbeds. Turn
left when you go down the hill into Karaoglanoglu, and it is about
three miles along the road on the right. There is a large concrete
monument close to the beach, so it is hard to miss. It has a small
restaurant and bar.
Along the same
road is Deniz Kizi, attached to the hotel of the same name, which
is in a pretty bay. Further along the coast you come to Mare Monte,
which is well protected in windy weather. A little further on is
Alsancak beach, also known as Camelot. This has a rather off-putting
triumphal arch by the car park but the beach is clean and simple.
As a rule, for
beaches near Kyrenia, you have to buy a ticket, which costs about
£2, and this gets you sunbeds and the use of showers. On beaches
further afield where there are no services there are no charges.
The best beach
for a day trip is "Turtle Beach' - a long, open sandy beach
about 10 miles east of Kyrenia and about half an hour's drive from
the house. It is often almost deserted and has a small beach bar
where you can rent umbrellas. It is a protected area, and at certain
times of the year you can see turtles hatching and scrambling down
to the sea.
A memorable
excursion is a trip to the Karpass peninsula or panhandle. The whole
area is entirely untouched, and is a nature reserve populated by
flocks of goats and wild donkeys. It takes about 2 1/2 hours to
get to there, and it is a good idea to spend the night at the Blue
Sea Hotel. This is a one star hotel with no mains electricity but
is not without its own special charm. The main attractions, apart
from the monastery, are the numerous little bays along the road
and the massive expanse of sand at the end, which is certainly one
of the most beautiful beaches in the Mediterranean.
Simple food
and a warm welcome can be had at Ali's Big Sand Café, which
overlooks the beach.
Castles
Kyrenia Castle is worth a visit, and can easily be fitted in during
a visit to Kyrenia. It contains the shipwreck museum and some rather
lurid waxworks depicting dark goings-on in the dungeons.
St Hilarion
is also attractive, and is easy to reach by car. Buffavento is very
pretty, but is much more difficult to reach, as you have to climb
up the mountain to get to it. Kantara is a long way and probably
not worth the effort unless you are passing on the way to Famagusta.
In all these
castles, there are some sheer drops in unexpected places and the
railings are not adequate.
Monasteries
There are two ruined monasteries along the road the other side of
Five Finger Mountain (Besparmak). These could be visited in a single
day, but it is probably better to see them on separate days. They
are both set in a lovely mountain forest and details are the Diana
Darke guidebook.
Walks
In the hall there is a small guidebook giving details of walks you
can go on. From the house it is actually possible to walk to St
Hilarion, though this is only likely to appeal to the most dedicated
walker. It is well worth the effort though and the views are fantastic.
The walk takes about an hour and a half and you could always get
a taxi back from the castle!
When walking
in the hills, it is advisable to wear suitable shoes as a precaution
against snakes. Brown ones are poisonous but relatively rare; black
ones are more common but are completely harmless.
Other
Towns
The ancient ruins of Salamis, which are near Famagusta, are interesting
and the beaches
earby tend to be sandy and go on for miles. You should allow a full
day if you are planning to go to Salamis.
The old part
of Nicosia has a number of lovely ancient buildings all in fairly
close proximity. Recommendations include the Turkish baths, the
mosque (which used to be a cathedral), the market and the 'Big Inn'.
Again, Diana Darke's guidebook is a very good source of information.
Place
Names
Most places
have an English and a Turkish name, which can be confusing. The
most common ones are:
Karmi - Karaman
Kyrenia - Girne
Nicosia - Lefkosa
Famagusta - Maguza
Restaurants
There are lots of restaurants in and around Kyrenia serving Turkish
and international food. They are usually reasonably priced, and
normally display a menu with prices in Sterling. In Kyrenia, the
harbour is an attractive place to eat in. The Harbour Club (which
is not a club) is one of the oldest restaurants. It has a slightly
colonial feel, and I think it is worth visiting for the atmosphere
rather than the food.
The Brasserie
is at the top of the steps near the Harbour Club. Again, it is a
lovely building (the old Governor's residence), and has a simple
international menu. More for adults than children.
There is another
restaurant just beside the steps in the middle of the harbour, which
is an old converted carob warehouse. The restaurant, which is on
the roof, has a lovely view of the harbour, but the food is fairly
standard. Turkish food is a better bet than the European food.
Almost any of
the other restaurants on the harbour serve reasonable meals - some
tend to be 'hamburger and chips' establishments, some offer more
local food, but you can normally judge the quality by the number
of people.
For children
or just for a quick meal, the chicken restaurant called ‘Ezic’
in Kyrenia (on the main road, on the right as you come in from Karaoglanoglu
and opposite the supermarket) is brilliant. They do take-away barbecued
chickens as well.
The best restaurant,
however, is generally reckoned to be the Address, which is in on
the sea in Karaoglanoglu, at the bottom of the hill. It serves Turkish
and English food and is immensely popular. Coming down form the
house, turn left in Karaoglanoglu and look for the large sign on
the right. The full kebab is excellent. Reservations are advised.
Closer to home,
the two kebab places in Karaoglanoglu do perfectly acceptable local
food. The ‘London Butcher’ on the crossroads does Kleftiko
(long slow-cooked lamb) once a week as a take-away, but you have
to order it in advance. He is a good source for meat, and he speaks
good English as well.
Jashan's in
Edremit serves very good Indian and European food either on the
premises or as a take-away, and even does childrens food. It is
half way up the hill from Karaoglanoglu to the house. Click on the
logo and you will see their prices (notice that they are all in
£ sterling!).
In Karmi, you
can eat at the Levant or at Treasure, where the portions are huge;
immediately behind the house is Hilarion Village, which has a restaurant
that is open to the public.
Other places
along the coast (going west) are Guler's, which is an authentic
Cypriot restaurant (as opposed to Turkish). It is called 'Guler's
Fish Restaurant' but serves meat as well.
For a feel of
an old Cyprus house, you can visit Planter's, which serves European
food.
Activities
Scuba
The waters around Cyprus are clear and warm and often a T-shirt
and tank is all you need to go diving. There is an excellent scuba
outfit attached to the Jasmine Court Hotel on the left as you go
into Kyrenia from the house. Dives with all equipment is about £20
and he will take you where you want to go to. I would not recommend
the aircraft cockpit however as the dive is quite dull apart from
the cockpit.The visibility is usually excellent but there is a lack
of fish probably due to overfishing.
Karting
The Karting track
in Nicosia is a world-class facility and is reputedly the third
best track in the world. Last summer a evening out there (for almost
5 hours) for 4 adults and 3 children which included 3 to 4 races
each as well as some beers, coffee and snacks came to less than
£50. The adult karts are twin engine and go very fast. Children,
who must be over 8, race on their own track and have single engine
karts which and move fast for them, All laps are computer timed,
and after the races competitors get printouts with with everyone's
lap times, highest speed etc.
Check with them
before you go that there is not a local race meeting on. Click on
the icon below to see their website: (if you do click on it, press
cancel to stop the download of the character set - the site loads
quite well without it.)
Cyprus,
Bahceli and Esentepe
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